and 5 March 2011, Bukhara, 216, 217 5th March, Bukhara
Today we take a long time to decide what we do today. Finally, the decision is that we go to the hammam . For that we must pre-register us, because it is a pure men-Hamam, but after the opening times we can into it. 
Every day in the city is more renovated, new buildings swept away. Today a group of archaeologists is busy walls on the large square in the city reveal that a few days ago was just a lawn with benches. In other places is determined by a lot of manual work of cleaning, the previous generations, very proud of the vaults under a lot of manual labor had mounted, and mounted the wall, come out again. Only the arcs are newly whitewashed. Actually, the big hotels in the city a shame, we would like to, whether they be cut away. The post office and the office of the Militia have been cleared already empty and is vigorously working on the building. Unfortunately, the new post office not to work, we have now been around six postcards, including four from Turkmenistan still with us and hope to Samarkand.
are many of the old building a few meters below the present town of height, so it is always exciting for us to go the way because always something new to expose something else is gone.
The Haman himself is from the 16th Century, basically like what we have visited as a museum in Kashan (the admission fee to the functioning Haman is much cheaper). It is a complex area with vaulted ceiling. For us there is another way to pass, but first be a half hour on a hot stone and then into the steam room. Only in retrospect, we suspect that we have not properly understood: we have seen ten minutes and then wash. This is also all ready. In the steam room will be provided in each niche, a little like Stylites we stand there and stand and stand and always think: man, these are really long ten minutes (before we were always Passage of time brought to the next action). It is crazy hot. Sometime we go out and wash us with good soap. When we arrive in the lobby, he is surprised that we are already there. We understand: the bowls of the cold water before the steam would probably have to cool in between. Then we would go in again and then can eventually wash with warm water. But it is a wonderful feeling. Our pigeons are still of the cold fingers actually start to tingle. Maybe yes but they melt again.
4th March Bukhara
Again we started the day - To sleep and a re varied breakfast at our landlady - with an hour in an internet cafe. Today we have actually managed the blogs since 1 December with the pictures to finish and adjust our route and elevation profile for each country. Even the press is up to date - if we get the articles that have appeared over us since last summer. What remains is an impression of the social and political situation, formulate what we have been kept from you both for Turkey and for the Iran. It's about the experience of a Islamic state (Iran) the headscarf wearing from (Gunda's) own experience 
, the prohibition of alcohol (one has a phone number and then someone comes up with a moped and brings the alcohol, beer $ 10 bottle of wine $ 60, Vodka is a bargain between 15-30 dollars) and dealing drugs and their illegal 
(with the highest per capita consumption of opiates in the world), to deal with a constant latent risks (both in terms of us as well - and contrary - the indigenous population). We meet a Japanese in Bukhara, who has photographed close to the demonstrations, a bridge, he was arrested for three days is his passport and his camera away. If you compare the locations of nuclear program of Iran with our itinerary will understand why it is from these regions were very few and quite innocuous photos. 
We would not endanger us by taking photos at these sites, nor through our photos and descriptions may provide attackers target information. For days we drove through FLAK belt, all the soldiers on alert and call-in and sign removal. 
A strange feeling for days to wave the soldiers friendly (and just as easy to get a response), in the event of a military strike the goal of the first wave of attacks would, for the air defense would probably off first place. For these regions, then of course there are no pictures, but a second problem arose: we do not have built up our tent somewhere just because sometimes was just behind every sand hill a FLAK position. Then it was all the more necessary to find a hotel or containing a base of Red Crescent or the fire department in order to stay above suspicion can.
Strange also, if there were suddenly blocked roads for coaches involved in high-security military areas with numerous bunkers passes. As a foreign traveler would normally on the bus this is then not even notice.
Strange also vorbeizuradeln at the airport, then part of the failed evacuation plan of Americans and at the same occasion to call the 1979 events once again into consciousness. In Iran, we learn again to read between the lines and write, and always the feeling that yes there is some truth to the criticism of the United States and Israel, as in many Murals in Teheran to express comes. 
The problem is that the general Propagandaattitüde 
for example, the state television is so penetrating 
that the local population then on illegal satellite dishes only CNN perceives in other ways as propaganda, and the absolutely critical. We often had the impression in Tehran that the young people everything is good, what comes from the U.S. and the anti-Zionist propaganda of the government is more likely causes deep-seated ethnic resentments of the Iranian resurgence towards the Arabs, the sympathy with the Israelis against just the Palestinians cherish - exactly contrary to the official propaganda. Not to mention that the eight-year war in the 80's against the Iraq war was a against the Arabs, and Aryans Iranians like to call what is our turn a pale German flavor.
What remains, then, the impression is that drives a growing international isolation of Iran by the regime of the populace rather in an uncritical attitude, what the U.S. is concerned. Symbolic of this was carried to extremes by the selection of satellite channels in a hotel where the U.S. military station ran for Afghanistan troops ( Pentagon Channel ) next to the BBC. At the same time Europe's role in the perception of many Iranians is very ambiguous. Europe was for many - especially the 30-50 year olds - a place of education, ethics and good technique so that they were ready to question any statement critical of their government to Europe immediately, the agreement between Europe and the UN sanctions incomprehensible to many. The problem for companies, almost all are based on European and German products also. Meanwhile, everything is rebuilt and now the Chinese products are almost as good. Usually it takes two years for the Chinese production in order to get at the quality of European products, then there was no need for more Europe. Europe is still home to many exiled Iranians, but the perspective of the younger ones went to America and Australia. Turkey's role is as surely a special, but not as a European perceived. The opportunities to take a European perspective in Iran appear to influence, forgiveness as twofold: as Europe and the denial of entry of Turkey again in the perception of Turkey. In fact Turkey is a regional power, political influence and is responsible and might be for Iran's perception of the balance of Islam, Palestine, Israel and USA-criticism and self-interest. For us, the perspective is very ambiguous. After the many talks in Turkey, we see Turkish intervention and interests is always between the lines. The concern about a secret agenda to an Islamization in the long run, the task of secularization, the intellectuals in Turkey lives: we read when Erdogan intervened in the nuclear dispute. Even in Turkey, we had the impression that the EU issue for many Turks, but also for newspapers and television and is eaten rather a distinct anti-Western sentiment is spreading. Germany, for example by Atatürk's supporters as a way too liberal (Germany can exercise freely in force in Turkey as terrorists) and it surprised no one that many of the fundamentalist Turks there, which would in secular state Turkey are regarded as Islamic . According to the motto: "Only Turks in Turkey," but that should make even Germany. The pattern of racist Setting accompanies us beyond Turkey.
Iranian state propaganda can the West get out completely (to the point that is in the public news channel, the representation of the world in general so that the U.S. is excluded, and the news anchor with the head of Israel stands) and sees the relationship only to east and south. The West appears as the field's own problems with human rights.
We were surprised it especially how to hold on to a government that is referred to as a regime and dictatorship, and reflects people in a manner and ethical living in the permanent repression here everyday life that it really demands respect. The enthusiasm for culture, philosophy, Arts, other countries and languages, the conviction of their own culture and history as a melting pot and place of tolerance is an alternative world of the street scene that is the question, what holds together then. What will happen in the next election. We have also understood that the religious and cultural values which are originally in the Revolution of 1979, before she was abused, to reason, go so deep and are so deeply rooted in the nature and the soul einesR all Iranians remember that for the religious leaders is easy to elicit this again. The relationship between culture and religion, of psyche and mind, soul and reason, may need a different Reflection, as if the west-Aristotelian or deconstructive or whatever is done. However, we can thank all those we have experienced and seen hardly imagine that there is fanaticism. If the older US-critical, it is no longer the younger ones. Are the elderly of Europe believes it is no longer the young. Unusually perhaps, that the Kurds are well liked in the talks because they are the original Iranians.
We experience no resentment among the Iranian Kurds against the , as we have seen in Turkey. However, it seems to be different for the government, because the security situation was much tighter, There were more checkpoints, for example. After we were in Turkey always warned against the "terrorists" and basically do not have to go to the eastern Turkey, our impression was there very different. The region had the effect of intentionally cut off from development, dilapidated houses, by the dam projects, a huge movement of refugees, the borders of houses to look at where military conflict is. In the cities, in which at all Turkish police was present, only with armored reconnaissance vehicles. In some cities, there have been no more. At the same time we have been consistently taken by Kurds and sincerely it was in talks always the same to the problematic situation. "The Turks have a problem with us, we do not understand" was one of the key messages of Kurds in Turkey. The greater the pride can be felt on the autonomous region in Kurdistan part of Iraq. The ambivalence that results from the political power game and the warlike and brutal drama of the last 30 years, we now need to let the outside before. Kurdistan-Iraq has been the only region of our trip was, where hospitality and assistance will be provided as natural and existential. Because of the mines, we could not camp, we were always invited into the houses. So we learned how the Kurdish clothing should be worn and they were allowed to self-applying. 
These pictures we have not done in the blog because we could not assess how the Iranian and Turkmen government responded with sympathy towards the Kurds.
in Kurdistan / Iraq, we drove for days through areas that both the Turkish and Iranian air force and are attacked regularly. Damage in the streets could be seen still pretty fresh. Supposedly, this region is "retreat" of the PKK . But the battle lines are complicated, there were also long civil war between the (Iraqi) Kurds. Have very the various interests we never understood, perhaps it also requires thinking in tribal structures.
But back to the impressions after three months, Iran: Our first impression in Turkmenistan is then also the variety of the clothes and headgear, women without a headscarf in Muslim clothes and without, satellite dishes, which can be seen openly. Men and women, the simple treatment given to each other. At the same time directly lacks the warmth and hospitality of the Iranians and the Muslim cleanliness. There are almost no sink, let alone toilets with water (not only irrigation but also as a hose to the self-cleaning). We miss the Iran in its hospitality, uncommon culture and history, (and can also write some thoughts later in the blog) in the reflectiveness and education of people, living standards and at the same time we are happy so that we can now move more freely.
Perhaps a word about Islamic dress. After three months of forced and before two months, "voluntary", although not continuous, wearing a headscarf has arisen for me (Gunda), hardly any plausibility for this "fashion". As much as I can accept it as a religious symbol when entering sacred space, I do not see that it may have a religious or other significance in the restaurant with a headscarf and cloak or to sit in an overheated subway. Also, I do not understand why then should men wear what they want to styled hair. Manteau Hejab and has not been opened up to me and I have talked to any woman who could explain positive. The testimony of a man was, whenever the government makes mistakes or does not get further, it is the dress of women in debt ...
We are the day always in our thoughts Sigrid, the now flies to Tashkent and are grateful for the good weather, as in Uzbekistan, there is only visual flight. We walk through town, past mosques that are being renovated. 
In the meantime, we look at the oldest mosque, which is underground almost 
and beautiful especially outside. 
interior is still much to do. 
then the "Lab-e-house" on complex. Once we have overcome our language barrier, "Lab" is namely the banks and "House" is a basin, 
we find the complex 
and puzzled for a while 
whether the unorthodox one madrasah facade now dog or pig is .... 
The place is busy with groups and merchants, the construction workers are everywhere and work. 
Then we start the "Young Scientists-project": we patch up a foam pad. The hole is found quickly and after the mat is dry again, it goes to the patch. However, it is already clear in the evening that we were unsuccessful. Sigrid brings happiness to a new one, but we do have to Samarkand to come. In the evening consists of a culinary experiment: there is an Italian restaurant. We go there and are surprised by the food. It is really good. On the way back through the dark streets Wolfgang crashed into one of the many open Gulis and can catch but and has taken luckily only bruised it.
Time and again we marvel at the blue towers and the glossy baked bricks. Along the way, we enjoyed the many old doors 
and other beautiful buildings. 
The search for oil leads us to the market. The bazaar is much less hectic and loud, almost really more like a market. We meet there Abdul, who shows us the now closed shop for Cycling materials. However, we find oil and make a turn around the market-bazaar and watch the pigeons pecking at. 
Whether we would have to buy because we do not decide to happiness ... ... We discover a backyard tavern, where there is fresh draft beer. The first freshly tapped beer since? Probably Istanbul. We put the men in particular, to eat the smoked fish, although they are still raw inside. We get from our neighbor Bank offered one-half and eat it like it or not, but with the same suspicion with which it does it well. Only we wash our hands, not with beer. Then we make ourselves again on the search for the second synagogue and another mosque. We pass the gate, which is built on the site of the old brand new. 
the evening, when the construction workers are gone, the building site to the sandbox for the children of the neighborhood, but left for the photo quickly their castles. 
Today it is surrounded by modern buildings and gardens leave a little of a four-lane Street. Also on the way back we found the synagogue not for this, the mosque, which we have already seen, this time open. 
Also inside is a construction site. 
The donation is actually used. 
Tonight, we fall back on how peaceful and quiet it is in Bukhara. Some people travel on the road, but there is basically no mopeds. What a contrast to Iran! We go further and seek a madrasa, which we do not see at first, but the beautiful square with the pool and then another madrasa to the public bath. 
also is working on her. 
The road to the hotel is open, the workers are still trying to wall up the house to its original level again, even though the sun has already set. 
We have applied for a meal and eat in the warm kitchen. 
